Alaska is beautiful, what else can I say
I booked my trip to Juneau on
a whim after finding a cheap ticket, it had been 3 years since I had been to
the last frontier and I was eager to go back. With a friend living there I had a home base and was excited to go adventuring! It was a full day of travel from Billings, MT thus arriving
late in Juneau I did not get to see much that night. The next day (Aug 19) I
was lead to a nearby trailhead for Thunder Mt (apparently its name comes from
the avalanches in the winter sounding like thunder), it was raining (not
surprised since it is the rainforest!) Actually it looked like I was headed
through a jungle walking on large wooden planks, but that didn’t last long, I
crossed a small creek and the trail went straight up, over roots, mud bogs,
rocks thus entering the never-ending muskeg. At that moment I was happy to have
a nice rain jacket on, gortex shoes, gaiters, and trekking poles. I could check
my steps with the poles before plunging knee deep into a mud bog, or scurry
across a wet log without fear of falling off. The muskeg was impressive, the
green surrounding me looked imaginary, I kept spinning 360 degrees to take it all in, that was
a slow climb up the mountain! After 2 miles, I finally hit an opening which
gave a glimpse of the trail leading to the summit, the low lying clouds were
starting to pass and I may actually get a view, so I pushed on. Half way up the
summit trail I finally got a view of the city and nearby glacier, it was
beautiful! When I reached the summit the clouds were closing in on me and I
didn’t get much more for long range views, thus learning to take a break when
the views are there, they may not last long. On the summit I was greeted by
several marmots, they were huge in comparison to the marmots I’d seen in
Colorado, and these furry things were not afraid of humans at all. I walked a
few of the ridge trails, which seemed to go on forever, so after a snack
decided to turn around and head back down, I was expected back at the apartment
in a few hours to go run up another mountain J
There were some really steep parts of the trail coming up, and those were
difficult going down, glad to have the trekking poles once again! Halfway back
down the mountain I encountered a dog and his owner, they were both climbing up
on all 4 legs/arms, ha, and that’s what happens when you don’t have trekking
poles! But my fate would be dealt in the next 1000 feet as I descended one last
steep section about 25 feet vertical height at an 80 degree slope, there was a
rope there to assist, so I grabbed onto the rope with my left hand, and held
the poles with the right, it was slippery! A few steps into it, I couldn’t turn
back and started to slip, instincts kicked in and I stuck out my left hand,
elbow nearly locked to catch my fall, and “pop, pop, pop, pop, pop” I can
almost feel the pain all over again, 5 large pops coming from my shoulder! It
was definitely out of place, and I was in pain, curled up on the mountain side,
in the mud, with full body sweats plus I was starting to get cold. Not a great
feeling, I stretched my shoulder a few times and successfully got it back into
place, and continued my trek down. It was painful but I didn’t really have a
choice, there was no one there to comfort or help me. Once I reached flat land
I was back to the creek crossing, so I washed up a bit, extending my shoulder
into the water did not feel good but I wanted to ensure it was indeed back into
place. Walking back to the apartment I passed a school, there was a kid outside
with his parents, I didn’t really look at them, but overheard a comment that
made my day “look at that crazy guy”! After returning and changing out of wet
clothes I was off for adventure #2, a 5 mile road run up eagle crest mountain
with 3 other people. My shoulder hurt but I knew that running would get my mind
off of it. I was quickly reminded how much I despise road running, and the pace
of my fellow runners was dragging this endeavor out even more, so I decided to
sprint up the inclines and walk any declines or flat spots, this at least kept
my mind at ease. I hadn’t ran with anyone it quite some time, so I enjoyed the
small talk while I could then realize how much stronger I have gotten since
adventuring over the past 3 months. Running up that mountain seemed like a
breeze in the end, I felt like I could have done that all day! And the rain was
rather soothing, it rained harder as we climbed the mountain, I closed my eyes a
lot and just took it all in with my other senses. It has been so dry in
Montana, the change in climate was great, my allergies were nonexistent in
comparison. At the top we were all soaked, more soaking wet than previously
that day, and I wasn’t quite used to the cooler climate, thus started to shiver
in the car and took a few cups of hot tea to warm up my body temp once we got
back. The next day, it was raining hard when I woke up to severe shoulder pain.
I struggled to put a sweatshirt on and decided to make it a reading and
drinking tea day. Things happen for a reason, just accept it and move on. I was
glad to have 12 days left to explore Juneau.
Friday Aug 21 I was still in pain so took it easy in the
morning, but the sun was shining and I knew it was time to go explore. So I
started at the Thunder Mt trailhead but instead of climbing up there, I ran on
the relatively flat under thunder trail for 2.5 miles until I intersected the
east glacier trail (lot of tourists on this one, but I was the only one
running). About a mile into this trail I intersected another called Nugget
creek trail, it was unimproved or not taken care of so this intrigued me and
off I went up the valley. There was obviously a lot of gold mining in the area
at some point, leaving behind cables, iron pipes, and some shelters, being a
geologist it made the hike even more intriguing, I just wished I would have
brought my gold pan with. There was a lot of bear scat on the trail, more than
I’d ever seen in one day, thus I was very cautious, moving slow, ears and eyes
wide open. Sometimes I made noise, other times I was hoping to actually catch a
glimpse of a bear. The trail was hard to follow at times, climbing across
ridges through bushes, but someone had recently been out here, so I had some
tracks to follow. It took me 2 hours to reach the end of the trail about 2.3
miles in according to the Forest Service sign. At the end there was also an old
‘A’ frame shelter, another glimpse into the mining history. Nugget creek itself
was a powerful geologic feature with many waterfalls, I couldn’t get very good
views of them but the sound alone was soothing. The return hike, back to east
glacier trail only took an hour now that I knew the trail and just made a lot
of noise hoping to scare any potential bears off the trail. East glacier was
less populated with tourists as it was later in the day, so I continued the
loop and ended back up at under thunder trail and ran back the way I had come.
In all it was an 11.5 mile day in 5.5 hrs, I didn’t rest much since it was slow
going at times, so was tired when I finally got back to the apartment. Saturday
ended up being another rest/rain day. Went shopping for collagen, mct oil, tea,
and arnicare to assist in the shoulder healing. Then we cooked a bunch of food
and starting the process of building a custom wakeskate, good times!
Nugget creek
Sunday Aug 23 I hung out and read until late afternoon, then
was dropped off at the Treadwall trailhead on Douglas Island, across the inlet
from downtown Juneau. I had caught a glimpse of this trail while running up
eagle crest a few days earlier and it looked to be nicely finished with gravel,
so I thought perfect I’ll run the 12 miles in a few hours. However I was back
into the rainforest after a mile or 2, and happy that I had my pack with full
of gear to survive just about anything! I had my Enos on instead of gortex
shoes, so that was a disadvantage, but I did the Centennial trail (black hills)
earlier this year in the same kind of shoes so not a big deal, I’d just have to
deal with wet feet as I had to cross several streams with bridges that were
out. Some streams were moving rather rapidly and was a bit intense being alone,
without trekking poles this time. There was a sign a few miles in that said to
follow the flagged and signed trail after mile 3 to avoid a washout, I probably
should have taken a picture of this as a reminder as I saw a flagged trail
going straight up into the muskeg I thought well this must be it and started to
climb. The flags were near each other to start but then were more spread apart,
and I hadn’t found a nice topo map of the area yet so I was on an adventure race
without a map! I made it quite a ways up the mountain, and hiking through the
muskeg was a treat, felt like I was in a fantasy land. However the flags were
getting hard to find, after crawling through a rock cave I found another flag,
then insisted on thinking like the flagger, so I may find the others. Skirted
another big rock, found the next flag, but then was lost could not find another
flag, I looked for 30 min and realized if I didn’t turn around it would be dark
and I didn’t have a headlamp either, guess I wasn’t quite prepared for
anything. Upon turning around I got a bit disoriented and the lost feeling
started to take over, it’s good for the mind and body to get lost from time to
time, I just had to remind myself of that, take a deep breath and start
descending the mountain. A few hundred yards down I found a flag, and it was
easy going after that. 30 min later and I was back on the Treadwall trail.
Soaked and starting to get cold I had no idea how long it would take me to
continue north then west on Treadwall, so I decided to head back the way I had
came, I knew this would only take 2 hours and I’d be done before dark, so off I
went back through the stream crossings eventually reappearing at blueberry hill
where the journey started.
Mon Aug 24, I decided to play tourist and checkout downtown
Juneau. I biked from the valley to downtown, about 10 miles one way. There was
a bike lane or path the entire way. Was a bit surprised to not see more bikers
and less cars with the nice infrastructure. The motor vehicle drivers etiquette
towards bikers was impressive, they all seemed to take their time and allow me to cross
intersections or waited behind me if they were turning, it was a nice feeling at
least compared to my daily close calls living and biking in Grand Forks, ND. Downtown was filled with
people, at any given time there is 3 or 4 large cruise ships in the bay, which
can hold approx. 1500 people. The cruise folks get about 8 hours to explore
Juneau before they move on to the next town. Many asked me directions, guess I
didn’t fit the typical tourist norm. I enjoyed some fresh salmon at a restaurant,
then wandered to find some book stores, eventually finding a nice waterproof
topo of the area and a few Alaska adventure books to keep me occupied on rest days. I
enjoyed a king crab leg at another outdoor restaurant and chatted with a few
folks that were traveling on the cruise ship. I get a lot of good ideas and
places to travel when I mention my nomadic plans, most people still remain
supportive in our overworked society. After enjoying a few Alaskan beers I rode
bike to the local rock climbing gym (Rock Dump) to meet up with friends, and
sadly watch them climb, with the shoulder injury I didn’t want to push my luck
and rather keep what strength I had left to do some more hikes.
Downtown Juneau, with Mt Juneau in background
Tuesday Aug 25, I biked downtown again, but this time
decided to hike up Mt Juneau which overlooked downtown. In my mind I wanted to
run up the mountain trail, this was a great trail compared to others I had
been on, but my body didn’t want to cooperate, not sure if it was the beers and
fish day before or the hiking gods just weren’t with me that day. Took 70 min
to climb the 3 miles and 3500 feet in elevation. After reaching the top I was
amazed at the views not only of the city but the inlet bays, several islands
with mountains on them and the endless ice field made up of mountains and
glaciers. There was a nearby shack and gold mining equipment so I spent an hour
exploring that, chatted with a few fellow hikers, and hiked part of the ridge
going back into the mountains. I later found out that this ridge hooks up with
another trail approx. 3 miles in, which would have been a good hike! Upon
reaching downtown again, I indulged in Indian food with masala chai
before catching a ride home and sleeping shortly after.
Downtown Juneau as seen from top of Mt Juneau
Gastineau Channel
Mt Roberts (right) Sheep Mt (first snow covered from right)
North side of Gastineau Channel
Wednesday Aug 26, I was picked up by another unemployed adventurer,
he was a Juneau local thus had an idea what we were getting into that day. Our
plan was to hike to the summit of Mt McGinnis, the highest mountain in the
vicinity of Juneau that has a decent trail all the way to the summit. We
started out climb at 9:30 am it was supposed to take anywhere from 6-9 hours to
complete the 11 mile trek. It was nice to have a hiking partner, it had been
nearly a month since someone was on the trail with me in Glacier National Park,
while I thoroughly enjoy hiking alone, it is nice to have some company now and
again. We started on the west glacier trail which was fairly flat and rocky,
bridges over some the streams, until we hit a ‘T’ continuing east we would
reach the ice caves, which are washout areas underneath the Mendenhall glacier,
and turning west we would continue climbing switchbacks on our journey towards
the summit. The trail suddenly got a lot harder, no more bridges over streams,
some bouldering over large granite outcrops, places where roots and mud were a
bit overwhelming, waterfalls to enjoy, and blueberries to pick and eat! Each
clearing provided a nice view of the glacier, getting larger as we climbed. The
terrain changed a lot which was entertaining. At one point the trail was a
straight vertical climb with tree roots and random rocks to grab hold of. We
rounded up onto a false peak which was green, full of rock outcrops, and had
ponds from recent snow melt. Finally got a glimpse of the summit from here it
looked close, we were 5 miles into our hike already, however it ended up taking
another hour to get to the top. The last 1000 feet of trail to the summit over
the pyramid shaped peak was very steep, it felt like gravity was pushing me
off the mountain. Once on top the views were incredible, we were at 4200 feet
elevation. Mt Stroller White was directly to the east of us and climbing that
would provide an uninterrupted view of Mendenhall glacier hooking up to the ice
field. However getting to that summit would require climbing gear and an even
earlier start to the day, definitely added to the wish list for future
adventures. Out to sea, we could see the entire Juneau valley, Gastineau Channel, Auke lake and Auke
bay, and the various yet substantial islands going out into the ocean. On
Glacier Bay island there were three large Mt peaks all covered in snow. The middle
one was Mt Fairweather its peak at 17,000 feet!! Lunch break on Mt McGinnis
summit was beautiful soaking in the sun, I didn’t even need to put on another
layer for warmth (it was 81 degrees in the valley!) Could see Mt Juneau, Mt
Roberts, Sheep Mt, Mt Jumbo, and Mt Thunder, essentially all the summits that
have trails in the Juneau area. After an hour had passed we decided to start
our decent, it was treacherous! I took out my trekking poles for assistance but
had to take it easy and concentrate on the task at hand, trying not to let my
mind wander. I strained my shoulder a few times and grimaced in the pain. It
took a long time to go down the 2.5 mile vertical descent but felt
accomplishing once we were on flat(ter) land again. I was getting a bit fatigued
and leg muscles were tired but nothing compared to a long endurance event. This
was ideal training for upcoming 12 hour bike (END-tombed) and 12 hour run
(END-trails) races which are 2 months out. In all, the hike was 11 miles round trip
and took 8 hours with a one hour summit break, up 4000 ft and back down 4000
feet. The beer tasted great and was well deserved afterwards!
Thursday Aug 27, was a rest day, I was sore from the climb
up Mt McGinnis and it was raining really hard, a downpour that I hadn’t seen in
Juneau yet. I finished reading the ‘Golden Spruce’ and drank a lot of tea.
Friday, I hung out and read most of the day as well, it continued to rain but I
was itching to get out. So I took the bike for a ride towards Mendenhall
Glacier, the shoulder was pretty sore so I returned after a 7 mile ride and
went out for a run on the under thunder trail. Decided to make a high intensity
training run out of it and pushed myself until I almost left my lunch on the
trail. I was cruising over the slight up and down hill portions, passing a few
folks out walking their dogs. After 5 miles running I was tired, went back
home, took a hot shower and continued reading the evening away. Saturday, I had
an invite to hike Granite Creek trail, woohoo more hiking buddies! It was
raining again, but we went anyway, it was a nice gradual uphill hike with lots
of good conversation on the side. The Granite creek valley was beautiful, full
of waterfalls coming down the side of mountains, and one large waterfall on
Granite Creek itself. We reached a remnant of a glacier at the end of the trail
took some photos, then with a chill setting in decided to turn back and go back
down. We hiked 8 miles roundtrip in about 3 hours. Saturday night we went
downtown and enjoyed some live music. The first band was really good then they
progressively got worse (in my opinion) I thought it should be the other way
around. So we retreated to the wharf for beers and laughs. Sunday was feast
day, I made myself breakfast in the morning, then we went to a friend’s place
for brunch (which was planned from the night before), followed by grocery
shopping and more cooking later that afternoon, needless to say I was in a food
coma before long. Instead of feeling miserable we went to play disc golf in the
rainforest, what a cool course, going up and down through mud over logs and
into the muskeg. Great design and challenging course. Monday, guess what it was
raining again, the 3 days of sunshine last week were the last I was going to
see. I was tired of the rain at that point, and really had no motivation, I was
still stuffed from all the food we had ate on Sunday and made another
reading/journaling/tea day out of it. Tuesday morning I had to fly back to
Montana, prior to entering the airport I looked back on Mt McGinnis and Mt
Stroller White they were both covered in snow, we picked the last day possible
to make that climb!
Great Blog..Jason! Thanks for "friending" me on Facebook and I wish you well on your ventures. We loved our motorhome adventure for 13 years which included short hikes, ATV and jeep rides in different States. Your Aunt says "Go for it" while you are young! Stay safe!
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